The exposed wooden beams across the ceiling and the diaphanous curtains at Lark on Capitol Hill conjure the warmth of a rustic cabin, but the cuisine is the antithesis of simple and old-fashioned. John Sundstrom, past recipient of the James Beard Foundation's Best Chef: Northwest award, specializes in creating inspired small plates intended to be shared among dining companions. The table may begin with a trio of exotic cheeses before moving on to notable seafood small plates such as carpaccio of yellowtail or Sun Hollow raw oysters. Indulge in other offerings such as crispy duck leg or rotisserie pork belly. Try the chocolate madeleines for dessert. Full bar. Serving dinner Tue–Sun. Closed Mon. One of Seattle magazine's 79 Best Restaurants of 2009.