From its elegant Midtown setting, The Waterboy gives the cuisines of southern France and northern Italy a California kick, making this local institution a favorite stop for a seasonally changing selection of impeccable meats, fish and pastas that incorporate the hottest regional epicurean trends. Chef/owner Rick Mahan offers a menu that particularly excels with sweetbreads and seafood, though creative entrées may range from pan-roasted duck breast to house-made lamb sausage. Fresh bread provided by Grateful Bread and a fail-proof gourmet dessert list bookend a near-perfect dining experience. Voted Best Restaurant and Best Chef in 2007 News & Review readers poll. Full bar. Serving lunch Mon–Fri, dinner nightly.