Cyclo has nearly everything working against it: Vietnamese is one of the most overlooked of ethnic cuisines; its Chandler strip mall location is easily missed; service is said to be, shall we say, leisurely. But something about this artsy little eatery keeps it packed from opening to closing, and we'll venture to say that something is charismatic owner Justina Duong. When not playing around with her constantly evolving menu between lunch and dinner, this young firecracker is hostessing, taking orders or pulling up a chair to tables so she can chat with customers. Duong's local fan base has grown over the years, as her weekly visits to competing restaurants have taught her what works and what doesn't. What works: creative fare loaded with interesting flavors and spices; fresh ingredients, with every last papaya grated to-order; and competitive pricing, by which we mean inexpensive. Although no menu item is ever set in stone, rest assured that each noodle dish, soup and rice platter is well thought out and flawlessly executed. A couple of dishes to look for, however, include: crispy lemongrass chicken, shrimp and pork-stuffed rice crêpes, and Hanoi rice vermicelli (pork and sausage with pickled vegetables, noodles, lettuce, cilantro and mint). Mini-desserts often prove the most creative variety in Duong's repertoire: Jasmine crème brûlée, for example, combines the techniques and flavors of the French and Vietnamese culinary worlds. An interesting selection of specialty teas, coffees and sodas are available, as well as beer and wine. Serving lunch and dinner Tue–Sun. Closed Mon and between meals. Voted Best Vietnamese Restaurant in the 2007 New Times readers poll and Best Inexpensive Ethnic Restaurant in the 2008 The Arizona Republic critics poll.