Most chefs simply serve food, but effervescent proprietress B.J. Chester-Tamayo also dispenses legendary full-body hugs to patrons of Alcenia's Desserts & Preserves Shop, named for her mother. She gives a whole new meaning to "soul food," treating her entire operation as a therapeutic exercise. (She started the business in 1996 after the sudden death of her son.) The menu, divided into classic meat-and-three combinations, replicates the flavorful cuisine of Meridian, Miss., her hometown. Save room for the hot water cornbread, followed by one of B.J.'s signature desserts – think bread pudding, buttermilk pie or sweet potato pie. No alcohol available. Serving lunch and early dinner Tue–Fri, breakfast and lunch Sat. Closed Sun–Mon.